"How to Care for your New Lawn Seeding"

Care and Watering of Your Hydro-Mulched Seeded Lawn 

- Your Hydro-mulching application contains grass seed that requires a continuous supply of moisture.

- This moisture must come from rainfall or watering.

- It is not likely that it will rain every day for the next week or two.

 (In times of heavy unpredictable rains, "seed to soil contact" is recommended prior to hydro Mulch Seeding)

 - Be sure to water frequently enough to keep "just enough" moisture in the soil and "long enough" to encourage germination and sprouting of seedlings and "well enough" until new growth is well established.


 Day 1 after installation - and during the establishment phase,
In optimal conditions "once-or-twice-a-day-watering"
is usually appropriate, throughout this growing period.

Spring Season Seeding Calendar.

April 15th (is considered early seeding)
May 15th (is considered to be optimal seeding period)
June 15th (Spring seeding is falling late to summer conditions)

And yes, watering three or more times a day may be required at various times of the year.

Fall Season Seeding Calendar.

August 15th (is considered early fall seeding)
September 15th (is considered be optimal fall seeding period)
October 15th (Generally considered to be late fall seeding)
(in some case histories, seeding can carry out into mid-November)

But, after germination has been established, it is very important to avoid watering during high heat of the day, especially when temps of 85 degrees or more and humidity of 85 % plus. Any period of combined heat plus humidity equaling conditions of 160% and no air movement for 10 hours or more is considered "cautionary" and must proceeded with extreme care! 

- Avoid puddling and washing. Water thoroughly and evenly.

"Too much or lack of"
 Will show results and determine exactly how it was cared for.

 - The second phase of the watering program begins when the grass is about 1" to 2" tall, reduce the frequency, longer intervals of watering to once a day to every other day (2 to 3 times a week) or so "as needed" to keep your New Lawn healthy and growing. 

- In the very hot summer (caution) conditions, it is very important to carefully monitor your situation!

Only water as necessary or as needed.

- As discussed earlier, Moisture, heat, humidity along with no air movement/circulation for 10 hours or more is a sure forecast that trouble is on the way!

A pre-fungicide is recommended in staying proactive in slowing the growth of mold spore and fungi.

 is very important in controlling or avoiding such common diseases like
"Seedling Dampening Out"

- Commonly known as "Pythium" or "Mycelium" Blight spots! -

NOTE: If you feel like something does not look right or there is a problem brewing.

- Don't wait and see -- Do the Following -

Turn off irrigation - Stop all watering

Call your lawn installer or more importantly a Lawn Care Professional and treat with a fungicide and follow their care instructions immediately! 

"Self Help"
Provide air circulation (leaf blower or stronger back pack blower), this will disrupt the mold spore activity.
Continue t repeat the process until you are able to get a proper diagnoses of the problem 

Please understand time is not on your side when this type of situation occurs, (usually happens within a 24-hour period) and by the time you visually see it, the damage is irreversible in most cases.

- Reduce or discontinue watering during wet and/or cool periods -

- A new lawn should be mowed as soon as the grass blades are 2" to 3" high.

 - This helps the plant to "Harden Off" as it develops, producing a strong healthy and mature lawn.

- Your lawn will naturally and get an early start and become resistant to many diseases.

"Be Proactive!"
- Delaying the first cutting encourages weed growth, and allows long grass blades to bend over, causing a shabby appearance.

- Also, invite many common lawn diseases, mold spore and insects to hibernate and be destructive and cause irreversible damage.

- Mowing plays a vital role in controlling the weeds!
Giving the grass the opportunity to “choke out the weeds”.

- Subsequent mowing should be done every week, or every 1" inch of new growth or as needed. careful mowing habits will not hurt a new lawn!

- Bag and collect clippings - avoid smothering and mold spore activity in your new lawn with heavy clippings! 

- The blades of the lawnmower should always be kept sharp.
Sharp blades prevent bruised and torn grass blades.

- Bruised or damaged grass invites grass disease and results in unsightly brown spots.

- If the grass gets too tall before it is mowed, raise the mower.

- Mowing young tall grass too close can kill the grass.

- A good rule of thumb is to never mow off more than one-third of the grass leaves during anyone cutting.


It is recommended soon after the first site of germination of 1" to 2 "
That a "Starter New Lawn Fertilizer" is applied now.
This will help encourage new growth to the first mowing stage.

 - If your New Seeding is fertilizer deficient, it will struggle to make it to the first mowing! 

  (Causing the leaf tissue to become pale in color and weak, unable to produce new vibrant, healthy stand of growth.)

  - Your New Grass will need a strong application of balanced fertilizer after the first mowing and again 30 days later.
(Please seek a seasonal program that best fit your lawns needs)

- Apply fertilizer on the lawn area when it is dry and then water thoroughly.
- Use a standard balanced fertilizer available at almost any lawn supply store:   Examples include the following:
(10-10-10, 13-13-13, 10-20-10, 12-12-12 14-14-14, 12-24-12, 8-32-16)
Apply at rates recommended on the bag.

If no recommendation is on the fertilizer bag, usually about 50 lbs on a 5,000 - 12,000 square foot average lawn will be suitable.
And be sure to water thoroughly immediately after applying the fertilizer.



If you still have questions? Read this page again.
Updated - Copy Right 2024